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A Haikou Journal

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Sunday, 22 January 2006

Gods of the Modern World Wear Running Shoes

 

Alongside a lonely high desert highway in northern California, there used to be a shoe tree--a knotted old cottonwood with hundreds of pairs of shoes dangling from its branches.  A venerable old tree, The Shoe Tree stood alone amongst miles of sage and rocks. 

No one knows how it got there or exactly when it became The Shoe Tree.  Some claim that a newlywed bride tossed her heels into the branches in a moment of ecstasy.  Others say it was a truckload of drunken migrants on their way back from a party.

Whatever the reason, The Shoe Tree has found a place in the local lore of the small desert community where it resides.  Legends grew up around it.  Travelers late at night sometimes claimed to see the ghost of a young woman killed in a traffic accident just around the bend reclining against the base.  Others claimed that jewels or money could be found stuffed in some of the toes of the footwear.

 Most people treated the tree with affection and humor.  Some, like my mother-in-law, found it ridiculous in the extreme.  A few shunned it, claiming it was akin to the worship of Baal. 

Maybe they had a point.

The Shoe Tree did exude a certain reverential presence.  Majestic and gnarled, The Shoe Tree was a deity among trees.   Impossible to ignore, the tree with its ever increasing number of canvas fruit commanded attention.  Every so often the highway department would come along and clear out the shoes, but within days they would show up again.  Cowboy boots and dance shoes.  Expensive Nikes and casual slippers.  High heels.  Birkenstocks.  Even mukluks and diving flippers occasionally made their appearance.  Once I saw a false leg dangling like a giant pod from the branches. 

Then one Friday morning The Shoe Tree lay on its side in the turnout it had inhabited for years.  Someone had cut it down. 

The demise of The Shoe Tree made front page news in Susanville, about 50 miles away.  Accusations flew.  Some blamed the highway department.  Others an escaped convict from the nearby penitentiary.  One resident tried to pass it off as the work of aliens from outer space who took it to study the earth’s culture.  Most believed it to be the work of an angry, alienated teenager with a chip on his shoulder.

Overnight a small shrine grew up in the place where The Shoe Tree once stood.  Bouquets of flowers in old boots adorned the stump.  Poems, pictures, and lots of old shoes formed an altar. 

Then, new shoe trees began appearing throughout the area.  One on the road to Redding, another on the way to Reno.  Shoes were seen dangling from an old oak close to Lake Tahoe.  While poignant reminders, none possessed the charisma of the original Shoe Tree.

Someday, far in the future, archeologists may discover these trees.  What will they conclude?  That we worshiped the shoe?  Or we were a people with a foot fetish?  Maybe they will presume that we were a restless folk who loved travel, always in search of new horizons.  Maybe they would be right.

 

posted by: jordanclary at 12:16 | link | comments (4) |
travel, faith, footware

Thursday, 05 January 2006

I’ve been in China long enough now that not much surprises me.  So when my husband and I went to Guantang Fuhai Hotspring Resort over Christmas weekend and the brochure told us to “Come On In and Enjoy our Drug Pool!” we figured, sure, why not?  After all, the brochure also told us that we could “cultivate spirit and free from vulgarity here.” 

 So that night we meandered into the “Chinese Herbal Hot Tub” area.  It looked like a tropical Munchkin Land.  Sparkling lights were draped around the palm trees.  Red lanterns swung from every available protrusion.  Rainbow lights danced off the waterfall that cascaded over the fake rocks.  It would be a great site for a Grateful Dead show (if only Jerry were still alive!) and a hit of acid.  Maybe they weren’t kidding when they said they had a drug pool. 

 Among the 22 herbal concoctions with names like Dreamy Pool, Dragon Water Pool and Pool for Prolonging Life, was one very special, at least for us, pool.  The Coffee Pool.  We got to soak in a tub of coffee for as long as we wanted.  This was a true Zen coffee experience.  We became one with the coffee.  We don’t even drink coffee anymore but it was great to soak in it.  And the hot coffee came pouring out of a stone goat’s mouth.  My favorite animal.  The other pools also had stone guardians that dispensed their brew into hot tubs.  The pig spouted coconut milk.  The little tea pot poured, naturally, hot water over a huge bag of green tea bobbing in the tub.  Water barely trickled out of the deer’s mouth but the pool did have round slices of lemon floating in it.  Each one had its reputed curative powers for things like purifying the liver, losing weight, relieving uneasiness of body and mind, or strengthening the yang qi.

 The next day, Christmas Day, we left.  The taxi picked us up at the hotel.  We planned to go into town and catch a bus back to Haikou.  “Where are you going?” he asked.  We told him and he offered to take us for 200 yuan (a little over $20), a good price for a good hour and a half ride.  However, the hotel had a lousy restaurant and we hadn’t eaten so we thanked him, but said we wanted to get something to eat first.  “No problem,” he told us.  He then drove us into Qoing Hai, and took us to a great little noodle place where we drank tea and ate bowls of homemade chicken soup with homemade noodles.  We had a great drive home.  The day was warm and sunny.  The taxi made good time.  We made it home in time to open the presents under the potted palm by noon. 

posted by: jordanclary at 06:49 | link | comments (7) |
china, travel

Wednesday, 04 January 2006

The land smells like old coins,

like rust and sulphur

I came here

middle-aged and ungraceful

to grieve

to live again

and I found myself on an old bus

on a road that dipped

and rose through the Himalayas

 

We passed a village.

An old woman

in a white dress

sat on the dividing line

of the highway

a bouquet of lilies

clutched to her breast

her head thrown back to

the cloudless sky

screaming

 

posted by: jordanclary at 14:16 | link | comments (1) |
china, poetry

Tuesday, 03 January 2006

My Mother’s Typhoon

 

           

            On the second anniversary of my mother’s death a typhoon hit Hainan.  I did not see it as an apt metaphor.  My mother, Dorothy, was nothing like a typhoon.  She rarely showed her temper or raised her voice when I was young. That demonstration of unrestrained fury she left for my father, then, later, for me.  Dorothy was predictable and safe.  She would never have ridden a motorcycle or lived in a tipi.  I can not imagine her rafting down rapids.  And she would never, ever have left her husband and children and run off to to find herself.

Dorothy’s big regret is that she wasn’t born in Victorian England where she could drink tea, eat crumpets and swoon anytime something unpleasant happened.  She would have been a natural for smelling salts.  Instead she was born just before the Great Depression, became a war bride, divorced when the war ended, remarried and raised one daughter through the conservative fifties, her son during the hippie era, and her youngest in the seventies.  I was the youngest.  Since she died two years ago, I’ve been trying to reconstruct her life in a way that I was never able to do while she was alive. 

Like most mothers and daughters, our relationship was messy.  Her passiveness, actually, the passiveness of both my parents, drove me crazy.  Leisurely drives in the country usually culminated with my mother peering over her dark-rimmed glasses at my father and asking, “Honey, should we stop for lunch?”

To which he would reply, “Okay, where do you want to stop?”

“Oh, I don’t care.  Anyplace is fine.”

“Well, you tell me.  I don’t care.”

“I don’t care either.  Wherever you want.”

“No, you decide,” until, I, or my brother or sister, would point at the next restaurant we passed and shout, “There!  Stop there!”

 Our one or two visits a year often ended with me feeling frustrated to the point of a final blowup.  Then the guilt would set in and obsess me long after one of us had boarded the flight home.  Guilt from her, rage from my father, I had inherited a mixture of traits that fought against each other like monkeys and lions.

 Since coming to Hainan, I often dream about her.  On an island where ghosts walk hand-in-hand with the living and the dead are served first at dinnertime, I guess that isn’t surprising.  Usually, the dreams take place at the lake in Ohio where I grew up.  In one she looked radiantly beautiful, serene and peaceful, her black hair streaked with silver.  She said she knew she would die soon of congestive heart failure and it was okay.  “An eye for an eye,” she mused.

Who knows where dreams come from?  Maybe it’s just my subconscious working through grief.  Maybe something of her spirit remains and is trying to comfort me.  Who knows what happens after we die?  I know I don’t believe in anything that religion teaches and, yet, I believe in something.  I believe that even nothing is something. 

On the first anniversary of my mother’s death I bought flowers and incense.  One of my students came along with me.  “Are you sure you want to do this,” she asked.

            “Of course.  Why not?”  I answered.

            “She died in the US.  You’re in  China .  Aren’t you afraid you’ll confuse her spirit?”

I took my chances, even though she did have a terrible sense of direction. 

That night she appeared in my dream as a very old woman, so bent over that she had to crawl.  She said, “I feel so sad when I look at these children to know that they, too, will have to grow old.  How good it would be to die today.  Then I could be with him.”  

Some say that the symbiotic bond between mother and daughter is the most intense in a person’s life.  Maybe it’s true.  I’ve spent my life trying to escape being like my mother yet, I look just like her.  And the similarities don’t stop there.  I also want to please, please, please.  I want everyone to like me.  Yet, unlike her, I can be a colossal bitch with an erratic temper.  I speak my mind.  I’m stronger than my mother and certainly, more adventurous.  I love torrential storms.

My mother had always been afraid of storms.  As a child, I remember her flinching at every clap of thunder during one of the frequent Ohio summer downpours.  Yet I also sensed that deep inside of her lay a dormant self who wanted to be a little wild. 

In some ways Dorothy was an adventurous woman for her generation.  She traveled internationally without my father, although always with a group or as part of a tour.  She had secrets.  Once she loved a man other than my father.  She told me this several years after he had died but I remembered the time.  I was a teenager and my mother went to the library several nights a week, often returning home up to an hour after it closed.  She believed my father never knew and I never told her that during those years he often paced the living room, staring out the windows, muttering about why wasn’t my mother home yet?   When the car finally turned into the driveway, he would retire to the bedroom and read as though he hadn’t even noticed her absence. 

I was unprepared for my mother’s death.  I still hadn’t quite processed losing my father two years earlier, and now she was gone as well.  I grieved and, yet, I felt other emotions too.  Neither of my parents had lived to 80.  Now I would never have to be responsible for caring for either of them during an infirm old age. 

Something broke loose in me during that first year after she died.  I came to and took a job at a small college.  Sometimes late at night after the land had cooled from the humid afternoon heat, I would walk along the canal past the tall weeds.  Bats darted around my head.  In the black sky dangled a misshapen moon. 

During the typhoon, on the second anniversary of my mother’s death, I walked outside through the dark campus.   Trees lay uprooted along the sidewalk.  Shattered glass from windows in The Foreign Languages Building sprinkled the sidewalk.  Wind raged and nearly blew me off my feet.  The typhoon brought a histrionic closure to my second year of mourning.  I still dream about my mother; I will always dream about her.   I still miss her.  But the clichéd sayings that are meaningless in the first year of grief begin to make sense.  Time does heal.  Loss does become more bearable. 

 

 

 

 

 

posted by: jordanclary at 07:49 | link | comments (2) |
china, family

The Field

 

After English corner

the students come up for tea.

It’s late

and the night has turned damp.

Outside the wind

raps its chilly fingers

against the window.

We talk of ghosts.

 

One of the girls tells me

about a field she passed

every day on her way to school.

Sometimes there were babies there.

Always girls.

There might be

a small basket

or a pile of clothes.

Sometimes the dogs were snarling

over the bodies.

The smell, she said,

was terrible.

posted by: jordanclary at 06:49 | link | comments |
poetry, china